Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
